Posted: April 26, 2017
Call Jig: If you plan on making your own inserts, you will need a call jig. A jig is used for cutting the cork notch and the toneboard shape of an insert. These can be custom made for a unique sound or you can purchase a public jig, which will allow you to make your own insert without the hassle of. Our public duck call jig (toneboard jig) has a real ducky sound. 5/8” bore, hardened to 60 Rockwell to ensure many toneboards can be made from it! Bottom edge measures 2.25′ long. 'A duck call is basically like any other woodwind instrument,' Heidelbauer says. 'The sound is produced by the vibration of the reed on the tone board. In many single-reed calls, when you blow too hard, the air pressure lifts the reed right off the tone board. The reed continues to vibrate, but in mid-air, where it makes no sound.'
Louisiana Style Duck Call Jig
There are three major styles of duck calls (Arkansas, Louisiana, and Reelfoot), each having their own unique construction methods for the tone, or sound board, and the effect it has on the reed material used. Either of these styles can be made out of wood, acrylic and even materials such as Corian and Micarta are used. Most calls are made with a single reed; however, there are calls with double and triple reeds. Another style tone board that is not that common is a Catahoula style, see below.
Arkansas - An Arkansas insert is constructed with a curved tone board and a flat reed, and is fabricated with a wedge slot. The reed is held in place by a cork wedge. There are a total of 3 parts; Reed, cork, and the insert with a curved tone board.
Louisiana – A Louisiana insert is constructed with a curved tone board, flat reed and wedge. However unlike the Arkansas style, the Louisiana insert components are placed together and then placed inside a barrel insert. There are a total of 4 parts; tone board, reed, wedge and insert barrel.
Reelfoot – A Reelfoot insert has a flat tone board, a curved metal reed, and a wedge block. The reed is held in place by the wedge block once it is inserted into the barrel of the call. There are a total of 3 parts; reed, wedge and the insert with a flat tone board.
Catahoula - Developed on and around Catahoula Lake, Catahoula Parish, Louisiana area. This style is sort of a hybrid of the Reelfoot and Arkansas type design. As you can see the insert has the same construction as an Arkansas insert, but the difference is in the construction of the wedge block. It's been around for more than 80. Not much is known regarding this setup. However, Brad Elliott (Stickman Calls), from Jena Louisiana, has a call from his wife’s grandfather, that has this style of insert (and is well over 80 years old).
This is what I am trying to create.
I have some small blocks of 4140 pre hard so I started with the smallest one. This was a good chance to use my indexable end mill. It has two TPG222 inserts. I just wanted to get rid of the scale and rust on the outside of the block and get things squared up.
Here is a first pass using some dark cutting oil.
After I got the sides cleaned up I started on the ends. The ends were rough saw cut and were not very square. To get things aligned in the vise I gently clamped the 4140 block to a small angle block. I rested the bottom of the work piece on a single steel ball so it could tilt and pivot while everything was tightened up. As I gently tightened the vise I tapped the block with a nylon dead blow hammer. Then I tightened the C-clamp again. Then really snugged down the vise.
You can see the steel ball under the work piece.
And taking a pass on the end of the block. The end mill was making nice 6 and 9 shaped chips.
The finished product from yesterday. Not great but not bad. Next up will be to drill and bore the hole.
DaveH
This is how it looks with the hole chamfered.
Tom
Next will be machining the rear step and then milling the 0.165' notch in the corner of the 'L'. It's supposed to rain next weekend so maybe I will get more time in the shop and the turkeys will get a weekend reprieve.
Here is the jig with the rough, saw cut faces.
Here are the homemade spring clips made from steel strapping tape that I use to keep the parallels upright and tight against the vise jaws.
And a final picture of the finished lower step.
This picture shows the surface finish.
Here is the jig in the normal orientation. Still need to add the little slots in the corner. Should be able to start this weekend.
(03-17-2016, 12:34 PM)JScott Wrote: I hit a window of opportunity and made a little more progress on the jig last night. I was able to finish the 'upper' step with a regular end mill. It doesn't have as nice a finish as the carbide indexable end mill. Tried different rpm's and depth of cut and they were all about the same.
Try using the side of the end mill for your finish passes instead of the mill end. You might find the finish more visually appealing.
My new goal is to get a 2¢ reply! I do appreciate the help.
Sawing out the piece was good. It's temping to mill it out, but that's not very efficient. You need to be careful with cutting speed on the saw as well or that pre-hard will kill the blade. It should be 60SFPM there too (with coolant).
How are you planning to cut the slot?
Tom
Duck Call Jigs For Sale
I saw cut the waste material at the lowest speed on the HF band saw and used a lot of WD-40 to keep it lubricated. It cut easily and when I cut the last bit by hand using the saw vertically very little pressure was needed.
My end mill could be dull because the carbide insert end mill left a much better finish. I always use some dark cutting oil with the end mills. It smokes a little but I don't mind the smell and I have a small fan set up to blow it away. I'll do some experiments with the scrap block I cut out with the saw.
My plan for the slot is to pre-drill holes with 1/8' drill bit and then use a long 5/32' end mill to remove the rest of the material. I am also looking at making a 0.165' broach from a square 3/16' tool bit and using the mill to nibble out the remaining material in the corners at the back of the slot where the end mill will leave a radius. I'll probably just file out the corners because there will be very little material and I've never made a broach before. But, like all things there is always a first time.
JScott